The New, Vintage-Inspired Eska Heritage Chronograph

Eska may not be a well-known brand, but this revived Swiss watchmaker is gaining attention among enthusiasts. Initially founded in 1918 by Silvan Kocher (whose initials inspired the brand’s name), Eska built a reputation in the mid-20th century before succumbing to the Quartz Crisis in the 1980s. Reborn under the direction of Christophe Chevreton and Sinicha Knezevic, Eska first released the Amphibian 250 dive watch, a modern tribute to the brand’s rare old Amphibian 600, presented in 2024 with a black dial, and later with a white dial. With the foundation laid, Eska now looks to another vintage staple with the new Heritage Chronograph, a hand-wound bi-compax model assembled in Besançon, France, for the historically Swiss brand is now French.

The Eska Heritage Chronograph draws from a historical Eska model and reinterprets it with contemporary specs and finishes. The stainless steel case measures 38mm in diameter, 13.9mm (incl. the domed crystal), and 47mm in length. Drilled, angled lugs add vintage charm. The polished and brushed surfaces provide contrast and convey a sense of refinement. The knurled oversized crown and rounded pump pushers directly nod to the watch’s motorsport inspiration. The case features a sapphire crystal on the front, mineral glass on the caseback, and the water-resistance is 50m.

On the wrist, the vintage charm is undeniable, thanks to the overall faithful retro design, as well as the compact diameter. Due to a modern movement inside, it’s a bit on the thick side. Not that the watch is particularly thick, but the small diameter somehow increases the feeling of thickness. At least visually, as once on the wrist, the Eska Heritage Chronograph wears very nicely.

True to its vintage roots, the dial features a two-layer construction, known as a step dial, made with two layers of enamel-like material and available in two colourways: matte black with white tracks and indices and Old Radium numerals, and beige with black and radium-toned tracks, Old Radium numerals. On the black version, the handset is white, including the sub-counter hands, with the hour and minutes treated with lume. The beige dial one offers the same in black for contrast. Both configurations feature bi-compax sub-dials at 3 and 9 o’clock, displaying the 30-minute counter and running seconds. The old-school typography and Eska signature reinforce the period-correct aesthetic, and the overall design is quite faithful to the original.

Talking about mechanics, the Eska Heritage Chronograph uses the hand-wound La Joux-Perret L113, a modern column-wheel chronograph calibre that operates at 28,800 vibrations/hour and delivers a 60-hour power reserve. This movement, based on the architecture of the Valjoux 7750, features a stop-seconds mechanism and comes with nice finishes, including Geneva stripes, perlage, polished screws, and a steel-coloured column wheel that the brand informs is unique to Eska.

You’ll be able to choose between a cognac Maya full-grain leather strap with nubuck lining, Eska-stamped details, and quick-release spring bars or an optional beads-of-rice stainless steel bracelet with a butterfly clasp and integrated end links. The leather strap is closed by a pin buckle.

The Eska Heritage Chronograph launches as a production of 500 pieces per year, with the first 250 units shipping in late September 2025. Pre-orders are open from June 13 to July 12, 2025, with early pricing starting at EUR 1,625 (excl. VAT). The standard retail price will be EUR 2,075 (excl. VAT).  For more information and pre-orders, visit eska-watches.fr.