The New Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Chronograph with Ocean Grey Lacquer Dial

First released in 2018, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris collection was designed to reintroduce a sports range alongside the brand’s classical Reverso and Master lineups. Deeply inspired by the 1968 Memovox Polaris dive watch with its alarm mechanism, there was more to the collection than just this complication, as the brand also released some pretty attractive chronographs. Two years ago, Jaeger-LeCoultre updated its Polaris Chronograph, both visually (new gradient dial) and mechanically (upgraded in-house calibre). Using the same base as this light grey edition, JLC adds a new Ocean Grey version to the collection. 

Besides the vintage-inspired Polaris Date model, which captures the spirit of its 1968 ancestor, the range also features more complex models, including a Chronograph, a Chronograph WorldTime, and a Perpetual Calendar, all with contemporary lines. The classic chronograph we’re looking at today falls into this category. As said, in 2023, the brand added some spice to the recipe. Initially released with somewhat restrained black and blue dials, JLC introduced an appealing double-gradient light grey lacquered dial featuring no fewer than three different finishes and a substantial number of lacquer layers, resulting in a highly attractive dial. The same idea is now reutilised with a darker edition in Ocean Grey.

The 42mm stainless steel case of the Polaris Chronograph has a thickness of 13.39mm and is defined by taut lines, curved lugs and a thin bezel. It’s a mix of modern and retro elements, with the overall shape inspired by the vintage Polaris Memovox but more tensed than before. The case is beautifully finished, like the rest of the collection, including a polished bezel, pushers and crown, and vertically brushed case middle and lugs with sleek polished bevels. Note that the brushed surfaces are done traditionally, resulting in a deeper texture. A box-shaped sapphire crystal protects the dial and the screwed sapphire back, together with the large crown, ensures a decent water-resistance of 100m – this chrono version is surely not to be confused with the other true diving models.

As for the dial, it follows the trend for gradient dials with granular matte finishes. The 2023 edition relied on a combination of light grey smoked effect and contrasting black elements. The new 2025 edition of the Polaris Chronograph is both darker and more uniform in its approach, with a so-called “Ocean Grey” colour – a deep grey-blue tone. The central dial has a gradient effect with a sunray-brushed finish. The hour chapter ring has an identical fumé effect, but this time over a grained surface, and the tachymeter scale and counters are treated in contrasting black with either a velvety surface or a light snailing effect. Bright orange accents are found on some of the chronograph’s elements. And besides this already complex play of textures and colours, the Ocean Grey dial of Polaris Chronograph is the result of a timeless lacquering process that requires a clear coat of varnish, followed by four layers of colour and then 30 coats of translucent lacquer, to add depth and richness. Openworked hands and applied hour markers with lume complete this handsome dial.

Inside the case, this version of the Polaris Chronograph is powered by the same updated movement as the 2023 edition, meaning the in-house calibre 761. Unlike the earlier edition of the Polaris Chronograph with 12-hour and 30-minute chronograph counters, the new edition respects the bi-compax layout but replaces the 12-hour totaliser at 9 o’clock with a running seconds function. A fully integrated automatic chronograph movement, it relies on a column wheel and a vertical clutch, as well as a double-barrel architecture for a solid 65h power reserve. The movement is decorated in classic Jaeger-LeCoultre style with Geneva stripes, blued screws, bevelled angles and an openworked rotor.

In addition to the classic textured black rubber strap with curved ends, this Ocean Grey Polaris Chronograph is also delivered with a blue-grey canvas strap. Both are equipped with a quick-release system, and so is the folding clasp, which can be used on both straps. Released as part of the permanent collection, this new edition retails for EUR 16,100 (incl. taxes). For more details, please visit www.jaeger-lecoultre.com.