Awake Presents the new Sơn Mài “Frosted Leaf” Collection

A young French brand, Awake Watches was founded by Lilian Thibault in 2019 with the idea to raise awareness of our planet’s limited resources. From there, the brand diversified with NASA-themed models or watches with a dial inspired by the natural geometry of a sunflower. Last year, Awake released Son Mài, its first permanent collection comprised of four time-only references illustrating the art of ancestral Vietnamese sanded lacquer paired with the application of pure silver leaf gilding. Based on this more compelling concept, the brand now releases a new take on the Asian métiers d’art, with the Sơn Mài “Frosted Leaf” Collection. 

Here, we’re looking at 3 limited editions that are based on the existing (and permanent) Sơn Mài range. As such, the basics are identical. The case, made of recycled stainless steel, gave a new identity to Awake with its 39mm diameter, short curving lugs and a thickness of 10.9mm without the sapphire crystal (11.8mm with crystal). The rounded bezel and top surface of the lugs are brightly polished, and a wide polished chamfer stretches from lug to lug demarcating the attractive, rounded profile of the case, with brushed flanks. Water-resistant to 50m, it features sapphire crystals on both sides and already proved comfortable on the wrist.

Inside the case, Awake gave its Sơn Mài collection Swiss power, replacing the Miyota movements with an automatic La Joux-Perret G101. This three-hand movement assembled in La Chaux-de-Fonds runs at a 4Hz frequency and delivers a robust 68-hour power reserve. The movement, classically decorated with Geneva stripes and a customised tungsten rotor, is framed by a laser-engraved “Clous de Paris” motif ring, marked with the limited edition number. All three Son Mai Frosted Leaf editions are delivered on a light grey nubuck leather strap lined with rubber (20–16mm) made by Delugs, with quick-release spring bars.

Let’s now move to what makes these Son Mai Frosted Leaf different from the classic collection. Here again, the dials are done using traditional Vietnamese métiers d’art techniques. It all begins with sap from the Rhus Verniciflua tree in northern Vietnam, whose brilliant natural lacquer forms the base of each dial. Master lacquerers first apply black pigments, followed by a layer of pure silver leaf, hand-sanded to reveal the initial textures. Next comes a veil of dark pigments, before the key step in our exclusive technique, Frosted Leaf. Unlike traditional dials, a second layer of silver is added here, then covered with lighter pigments. This layered material is then finger-sanded to reveal buried layers, creating effects of depth and light that are unique to each piece. Finally, several coats of lacquer are patiently applied, sanded, and polished to lock in a timeless shine. It is, altogether, a 15-hour process per dial.

The Awake Son Mai Frosted Leaf is available in three colours – blue, green and moka – paying tribute to oceans, forests, and fertile lands. Then, Awake adds its signature hands and applied markers. Instead of applying lume to the top surfaces of the hands and indices, Awake reverts the formula. The hands and indices are made from a thin, solid base of SLN BGW9, machined and then capped with a faceted, polished steel overlay, functioning like a backlight.

Available from the brand and its retailers, the new Awake Son Mai Frosted Leaf collection is limited to 50 pieces per colourway. The price is EUR 2,150 (excl. taxes) and the watches can be ordered at awakewatches.com.