Talking Credor with Evelyne Genta, and How Gérald Genta Created the Locomotive

Over the past few years, the name Gérald Genta has become one of the most famous in the watch industry. There are multiple reasons for this. First, thanks to the work done by Evelyne and Alexia Genta (respectively his wife and daughter), with the Gerald Genta Heritage Association. Second, the so-called “Picasso of Watches” was one of the most prolific watch designers, and his work has resurfaced and been praised by many brands re-introducing some of his masterpieces. One of them, a slightly surprising one to be honest, was the unexpected return of the Credor Locomotive. And there are many unique features to this watch. Beyond its Japanese origin and audacious design, it’s the story behind its creation that will be of interest today. How did a Swiss designer end up working for “the enemy” during the Quartz crisis? Well, it’s actually all about a human connection between an artist and a member of the founding family of a watch company. Today, we’ll be talking to Evelyne and Alexia Genta about the renewed connection between Genta and Credor, and the return of the Locomotive watch.

Brice Goulard, MONOCHROME – Dear Evelyne, let’s talk about Japan, Credor and Gérald Genta, your husband. How did he, a Swiss citizen working for many renowned Swiss watchmakers, end up working for a Japanese company? We know that, back in the 1970s, the Seiko Watch Corporation wasn’t as international as it is today, and Credor was still reserved for the Japanese domestic market. 

Evelyne Genta – You know, Gérald didn’t even consider himself entirely Swiss, but more Italo-Swiss, and the Italian part was dear to him, for the artistic side. In Switzerland, he worked for numerous watch companies, but he was always fascinated by other countries, particularly Japan and its artistic and cultural aspects.

One day, he received a request from Seiko, asking if he’d like to come to Japan and design watches for them. And remember, we are in the 1970s, in the midst of the quartz crisis, at a time when Japan is essentially the enemy of the Swiss watch industry. Factories are closing down, everybody panics… It feels like the end of Swiss watches. 

Nevertheless, Gérald (Genta) went to Seiko and was almost considered a traitor. But he liked the idea; he was very “clivant” (as Madame Genta said in French, meaning that he was polarising, divisive). And as soon as he put foot in Japan, he said to me, “This is it, this is a country I love”. He loved everything about Japan… The porcelains, the houses, and the way the food was presented to you in an almost artistic manner. And he received a very warm welcome from Seiko, in particular from Mr Hattori (a member of the founding family of Seiko and then-Executive Vice-President). Straight away, they got on. He also had a lot of respect from the people there, which wasn’t always the case in Switzerland. (Editor’s note: at this point, with an unmistakable sarcastic tone, Madame Genta explains that some Swiss brands, while very happy with Genta’s designs, were also happy to keep him silent, in the shadows… something that has changed in recent times…)

The reception of his work in Japan was very different, and there was a meeting of minds between Mr Hattori and my husband. And he arrived at Seiko with no specific brief. It was not like his usual work in Switzerland, which was more guided by the brands. And thus, the relationship between Seiko (the Group, including Credor) and Gérald Genta developed, with him travelling to Japan regularly, to the point of considering living there, as Toyota had asked him to design a car. This made him question his career, as he would have loved to become the next Pininfarina. You see, Gérald always felt he was an artist before a watch and jewellery designer. He was Swiss, so he designed watches. If he had been born in Italy, perhaps he would have designed cars. Had it been France, would he have designed clothes? 

But moving to Japan would have been difficult for him to run his atelier. But Mr Hattori, recognising his talent, did something nobody else did. He offered Gérald the opportunity to exhibit samples and prototypes of his own watches in Wako, the large watch shop owned by Seiko, located in Ginza, Tokyo. And what few know is that Mr Hattori was the driving force behind Gérald Genta creating his eponymous brand. 

Back to the beginning of the relation between Seiko and Gérald, I don’t know exactly how the idea came to them. What I know is that the initiative came from Japan. This is even more surprising in times of protectionism from both sides, given the state of the industry in Switzerland. But Gérald went straight away.

Brice Goulard – Moving to the design part, how did the idea of the Credor Locomotive come to mind? And how did he translate Japanese artistry into his design? 

Evelyne Genta – I think with this watch, Gérald went for an unexpected angle of Japanese culture. Not so much in the expected field of traditional crafts, but rather in the technological side of Japan. Japan back then meant modernity. If you have any new technology, it came from Japan. Gérald focused on the industrial side of Japan, and the Locomotive explores this aspect of the country. 

He didn’t look at the classic Japanese style. If he had done that, he would have created something very refined, very dainty… But Gérald never did what others did, as you know. And he realised that Japan was a powerful, technically advanced country. So this was a path to create an industrial-looking watch. But it has to be luxury, of course. Somehow, the luxury watch of the future. 

The beauty of this project lies in the fact that Gérald undertook it without any pressure from the brand, without a specific brief. He simply proposed a design to Mr Hattori and said, “This is what I would do if I were you”. And that’s when he was the best at his craft. The Credor Locomotive certainly belongs to the family of luxury sports watches, but look closely and you’ll see that it doesn’t have a classic integrated bracelet; it’s hexagonal and not octagonal, like many of his creations were. It’s not just a variation on previous works. 

Brice Goulard – But what about the name? Locomotive? We know he chose this name, which is surprising. But a French word for a Japanese watch is unusual. Why?

Evelyne Genta – Indeed, he chose the name, which was very rare. Most names were chosen by the brands. With the Credor Locomotive, Gérald felt this name was right. As a French person (she’s now addressing me), you’ll understand that a locomotive is more than the locomotive of a train. There was a double meaning, as it was to be seen as a driving force for the future, but also as the locomotive of what he had done for Seiko. 

And yes, it’s all the more surprising that people thousands of kilometres away from French-speaking countries even said yes to that name… And I still don’t know why Japan said yes to that name, but they did.

Brice Goulard – Let’s move to the present, and the Credor Locomotive has been reissued (at this time, Alexia Genta, Evelyne and Gérald’s daughter, joined us). What is the role of the two Genta ladies in this? 

Alexia Genta – Through Gérald Genta Heritage, we want to keep my dad’s legacy alive and ensure that the narrative is accurate. We see a lot of stories, myths and legends about Gérald Genta that are not true. There was a time when nobody would admit that their designs came from Genta. Then came the time when they admitted it and used it proudly. And now we even have brands claiming that he designed their watches, when in fact, he didn’t. 

So we just want to tell the true story. We also believe that explaining the man is inspirational. More specifically, regarding Credor, they once again came to my mother (Evelyne Genta) to check on recreating the link.

Evelyne Genta – Indeed, and it felt like the right thing to do. My barometer is to consider if Gérald would have been happy or not with an idea. If I feel that he wouldn’t have been happy, then I will stay away. But with Seiko and Credor, I knew he would have wanted this to happen again. And we’re very happy to participate. They are wonderful people. 

What you see today with the re-launch of Credor and the Locomotive is just the opening chapter for the future, and Gérald Genta is at the beginning of a new adventure. 

Alexia Genta: The reason why brands come to us, and why Credor came to us before relaunching the Locomotive, is to make sure that what they do and what they say is authentic. We feel proud of my father’s work, but also grateful that brands want to learn more about him, to understand the inspiration behind a design, why this shape, why this name… So that in the end they can take it to the next level themselves, and we don’t necessarily have a say in that, but they do want to hear my mother’s opinion about what they do, at least in the case of Credor. Because then it means that the project is authentic. 

Evelyne Genta – People today want truth and authenticity, because they can check everything much more easily. 

Brice Goulard – So, as I understand, this Locomotive is just the beginning… So let’s be creative for a moment, shall we? What would you do? Just to be imaginative. 

Evelyne Genta – Yes, it’s just the beginning. I think that this watch has potential. The way Credor relaunched it, which was quite late compared to many other brands, still leaves a long way to go. 

Now, I don’t run Seiko. I wish I did, but that’s not the case unless I’ve been promoted during lunchtime (laughs). But look at the Locomotive, it could be worn on a strap. Contrary to Gérald’s classic integrated designs that don’t look good on straps, this one could be with its central, narrow link. Then pair the dial with the strap. You have ways to move around a bit. It’s a refined watch that has the potential to evolve. 

Look at the screws on the bezel. You could replace them with cabochons with stones. And Credor, as I understand, is a space for the Seiko Watch Corporation to be creative. 

Editor’s note: Our conversation continued for a while, as we talked about potential ideas about what to do with the Credor Locomotive watch… But that’s not something to be revealed here. Some discussions need to remain personal, making them even more enjoyable. 

For more details about the Credor Locomotive, please consult the following links:

• Introducing – The Return of the Gerald Genta-Designed Credor Locomotive
• Hands-on – The Divisively Beautiful Gerald Genta-Designed Credor Locomotive
• Introducing – The New Green Credor Locomotive GCCR997 to Join the Permanent Collection
• Credor’s new international website

For more details about Gérald Genta’s work and the association founded by Evelyne and Alexia Genta, please visit geraldgenta-heritage.com.