The new Seiko Presage Classic Series Urushi Dial SPB499

With its Presage Classic Series Craftsmanship, Seiko has been exploring multiple facets of Japanese culture. Whether it’s about the materials used to create the dials, the designs inspired by antique Japanese textiles or ceramics or some of the earliest watches done by the brand, Presage is all about refined execution. On the topic of traditional crafts, and besides enamel, Arita porcelain and guilloché, Seiko has long used urushi lacquer to create deep, rich dials in various dark colours. New to the series is the reference SPB499, which is based on the same technical architecture as the Enamel SPB495 we’ve covered earlier this year.

As its enamel sibling, the new Presage Classic Series Craftsmanship Urushi SPB499 is the brand’s vision of an elegant watch that pays tribute to its country of origin and its culture – at least for the dial. The case is more on the contemporary side, with proportions that could be slightly reduced, even though Seiko has already made an effort on this topic. Made of stainless steel with super hard coating, the case measures 40.2mm in diameter, with a length of 48mm and a thickness of 12.1mm. As said, a millimetre or two less in some areas would be welcome. It is topped by a curved sapphire crystal with AR coating and features a see-through caseback. The case is rather elegant, with alternating brushed surfaces and polished accents, and yet it comes with a comfortable water-resistance of 100m.

What truly matters with this new reference SPB499 is the dial. It is certainly not the first time that Seiko Presage relies on urushi lacquer, as we’ve seen with these watches. Made from the sap of the lacquer tree, urushi lacquer has an elegant lustre that is achieved through layering and repeated polishing. The result here is a deep black dial with a gloss surface, hard to replicate with modern techniques. The rich colour of the dial is complemented by gilt tracks and printings, as well as leaf hands in the same gold colour. Interestingly, the hours and minutes leaf-shaped hands are finished with a grained surface, enhancing contrast and legibility. Just like the enamel SPB495 and the Arita porcelain SPB445, this new urushi Presage features a 24h sub-dial at 6 o’clock. I’d prefer a small second counter.

Inside the case is the modern calibre 6R5H. Like all movements from the series, it now benefits from a full 3-day power reserve while retaining a 3Hz frequency. The claimed accuracy is still on the low side, at +25 to -15 seconds per day, but these often perform better. The view through the back brings a gold-coloured rotor and minimal decoration.

Worn on a black leather strap with a folding clasp, the Seiko Presage Classic Series Craftsmanship Urushi SPB499 is released as part of the permanent collection and will be available as of July 2025. It will be priced at EUR 1,750. For more details, please visit Seikowatches.com.